Sunday, 3 April 2011

Weekend in Nanaimo

It's been a while since I've been out of town and I was hungry for a change of scene, so this weekend I ferried over to Nanaimo.

The weather cooperated nicely. After about a full week of rain, I had sun from the moment I left the ferry terminal - once we got out a bit, we could see clouds over the mainland but clear skies over the water.

After arriving, I walked to The Copper Kettle bed and breakfast, my hosts for the weekend, located about halfway between the ferry terminal and downtown. I had a nice chat with Fiona about many things British, as she and Maurice are expats from there, and she turned me on to the Fox & Hounds pub, which I'll write more on soon.

I resumed my walk to downtown, heading along the waterfront path. I stopped to sit on a bench, looking over to the Newcastle and Galiano islands and the mountains of the mainland beyond, and just watch the wind whip up the water, the boats passing, and seaplanes taking off. How often does one sit on a bench and just watch? Not often enough. That's part of what I came to do, I realised.

Resuming my walk again, I was soon downtown. Curiosity compelled me to visit an art gallery, and someone there told me about another show by three local teachers a few blocks away, going on just for the weekend, so I visited that as well.

Next I visited one of my favourite music shops in BC, Fascinating Rhythm. I so admire their selection, and I never know what I'll end up finding. This visit it was eight titles, including one rarity I wouldn't have expected to see in physical form.

My bag a bit heavier, I decided to visit Fox & Hounds, even though at late afternoon it was a bit early for dinner. This is my new favourite pub in Nanaimo. I can't believe I hadn't visited it earlier; I guess it just didn't hit my radar in earlier pub researching. It's a character house with a red telephone box in front (a group of people posed for photos with it during my visit) but inside it more closely resembles an English pub than perhaps any pub I've visited in BC, from the wood flooring, chairs and tables to the chalkboard menu, to the order-at-the-bar service, to the horse brass on the walls, to the fireplace, which I sat myself close to. So cozy. They even sell Walker's crisps at the bar. And not a single telly!

The taps were impressive also - several from the UK (though unfortunately none of the better, more regional beers, just major ones) and some from the Island. I started with a tasty IPA from Nanaimo's Longwood Brewery. After some reading, relaxing, and warming (from the fire and elsewhere) I decided to get dinner also. The cod and chips were very good, the fish especially, and I enjoyed it with another Longwood pint, the Heritage Mild dark that is brewed exclusively for the pub.

Fox & Hounds has recently purchased a building nearby at the rail station and is converting it to another pub, which will house the most taps of anyplace on Vancouver Island, even more than beer-famous Victoria. I eagerly look forward to visiting.

Back at the room, reviewing the liner notes of the CDs I'd purchased, I noticed one had the wrong disc inside, a close match by the same artist, so I hiked back into town and caught a storeperson just before they closed for the evening. With that sorted, I decided to stop at the Old Station pub, but the pale ale from Vancouver Island Brewing was disappointing after the Longwood taps from earlier. Another waterfront walk, and I was back in my room, reading articles and magazines on my iPad.

In the morning I was served a fine English breakfast. A highlight were the locally made sausages. I had another long enjoyable conversation with Maurice and Fiona and had to pull myself away to make the 10:30 ferry back.

The ferry ride was pleasant, but the high clouds gave to lower ones as we reached land, and as the bus left the roads were already wet. It was great to enjoy the nice weather while it lasted.

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